Great Alaskan 26

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Glacier Boats of Alaska is proud to announce the introduction of the Great Alaskan 26 series of boats ...efficient, seaworthy, roomy, yet still trailerable without a special permit. Plans for the 26' Great Alaskan series of boats (buildable from 25' to 28' LOA) are now available so that you too can build your own hand-crafted boat, no special craftsmanship or tools required.   Introduction and Study Plan Information: In the 24+ foot range, there are not very many sets of wood-composite (enhanced stitch-n-tape) boat plans available to the home builder's market.  The Great Alaskan series of boats are at the same time seaworthy, efficient to operate, trailerable in all 50 of the United States' interstate roadway systems, yet still easy enough to build that virtually anybody can do it - no fancy set of tools required.   We are not aware of any other boats that combine all the features that this boat does into a single vessel.  All you need is a basic set of sanders, a circular saw and/or a jig saw, and a few hand tools ...no planer, no bandsaw, and no router.   If you can use a jig saw to cut plywood to within 1/8" of a drawn line, then you can build this boat.  Contact us for more information. Click GA26 Design to learn more about this boat's designed-in performance features (specifications, plan and profile views are available below.)
Basic Specifications: LOA:  26' (Buildable from 25' to 28') Bmax:  8' 5" (at amidships sheer deck) GMt:  48" to 52" (Depends on loading) Max. hull depth:  62" Draft:  12-1/2" (plus outboard & skeg) Deadrise aft:  13.1 degrees Half-angle of entry:  26 degrees Side flare:  15-17 degrees Hull weight:  2200# to 2700# depending on house/cabin (hull and superstructure only) Normal displacement range:  3300# to 6000#, 3800# typical Recommended power:  650# to 1050# (Approx. 150 hp to 200 hp, 160 hp being ideal) Recommended propulsion:  Single or twin outboards Most efficient speed:  19 kts (22 mph) Maximum speed:  38 kts (44 mph) Fuel tankage:  120 gallons (typical) Expected fuel efficiency:  522 nautical miles per 120 gallons of fuel Roomy cuddy, room for stand-up head, galley, storage, and dining area Available in 3 models (1 primary hull design, 3 cuddy / pilot house combinations available, instructions for 25' through 28' LOA) Full free-floating Hydrostatics Analysis Full Planing & Hydrodynamic Stability Analysis	(Click Pictures to Enlarge) The 'Prince Rupert' The 'Newport' The 'Rockport' Prince Rupert & Newport Accommodations (Click Pictures to Enlarge)
Plans package: Full set of drawings including dimensions/lofting, assembly drawings, etcetera. Drawing set includes all those required for building all 3 models (29 drawings total.) Construction manual w/in-depth helps, instructions, photographs, and information for building the model of your choice from 25' to 28' (2 parts, 209 pages total) Wood-Composite Manual available separately (free online, free download, or low-cost bound version) (Not yet available. Please check back.)
Build sequence: Assemble the building jig, a large rectangular frame which carries molds and boat during construction Cut out and put together the bottom panel assembly (bottom panel molds, bottom panels, chine flats) and set aside Build stem, main stringers (longitudinal beams), sheer sub-decks, and transom Assemble, with temporary framing and sheer deck molds, the stem, sheer sub-decks, transom, and stringers onto the building jig (boat upside down) Install bottom panel assembly onto stem, stringers, and transom Fit and install side panels Turn boat upright and place back onto building jig (carpeted cradles) or trailer Add decks, cuddy, and pilot house Finish and fit-out Celebrate a launch! This building procedure is slightly different than what you will see being used for most wood/composite boats. The advantage is that with the procedure above, you can build a larger boat and do it with no special jigs or lifting equipment ...other than a few friends coming over for lunch once or twice. Let me explain. Most wood/composite boats are built upright and have bulkheads (etc) installed prior to turning the boat upside down for exterior finish work. The boat is already heavy before its first turning. Once the exterior finish work is accomplished, the boat would be turned back upright again and the interior superstructure added and the boat finished. This means that you have to turn a heavy boat once, and then a heavier boat once. The building procedure above is more suitable for larger boats. The bottom panel assembly is turned over once, while it is still lightweight and has no internal framing. Then later on, the boat hull is turned once ..the last time that it needs to be turned, but is lighter weight than what you'd have to turn when using more traditional construction sequences. When the hull is turned over, it has no internal bulkheads or decking that add extra weight. The additional weight of these internal components are not added to the boat until it is upright for the last time. This and the fact that you only need a very basic set of hand tools to build this boat is what enables people to build the boat without special equipment or experience. Note: My compliments to Renn Tolman of the Tolman Alaskan Skiff for the build procedure (used with his permission of course.) Click here for more Information

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