Up front (see arrow), I screwed short 2x4s to the jig to level the hull from side to side in the forward regions. Just the one support (on each side) was necessary. The jig is square and level, and these extra steps made sure that the hull was untwisted and level, and flat just ahead of the stern. Assuming the chine line is fair and ready, it's time to proceed.

The angle between the short piece and long is 16 degrees, so I cut an 8-degree pie piece out of both, routered a 1/8" spline slot and glued them together with a 3/4" spline and epoxy with a milled glass/silica thickening mix.

Once made, I used 1x3 MDF straight edges to hold the wood level and marked the chine line on them. Note the 1/2" spacer under the MDF on the port side. (HINT: MDF is perfectly straight right from the factory ...a great straight edge, and cheaper than 2x4s to boot. That's why I used them for the chine assembly.)

(Not shown) After marking the inner chine line, I lofted the outer line and cut out one of the front chine shelf sections, flipped it, marked out the shelf on the second 'bent' piece of 1/2" ply, then cut out the second one also. I clamped them together and faired them to match each other. I built the rest of the chine shelf structure by cutting 4" wide pieces and spline-scarfing them to the end of the front sections (8' section plus a 32" section). Once the entire chine shelf was finished (both sides) and cured, I used my 1/8" splining bit in my router to cut a slot from the aft end of the shelves forward to where the point on the shelves that goes next to the 1/4" to 1/2" scarf in the bottom panels (you can't spline the 1/4" forward hull panel sections ...they are stitched together.) Just in case you haven't noticed, the seemingly simple looking chine shelves require a lot of time-consuming work.

Notice the sand bag in the bow. Shown in the previous step, prior to marking the chine shelves. I had hung some sand from the bow to restore the 42" width at the 40" station. Since the clamp and sand bag would be in the way of the chine shelves, I moved it inside the hull and laid wood end to end, with a clamp at the stern, to hold the bag in place. It worked. The 40" station stayed at 42" wide as specified.

(Notice the fiberglass patches on the spline scarfs in the shelves. While handling these long pieces, I accidently broke one of the splines and had to re-do it. To make sure I could handle them without breaking them, I put a patch of leftover 9-oz tape over each of the scarfs.)

Actually installing the shelves was a somewhat iterative process. I pushed the splines in place on the bottom panels, then stitched just one middle hole on the forward shelves (assures fore/aft alignment to the boat), then worked the rest of the shelves onto the splines. As predicted by Renn, the aft end wanted to stay out from the hull about 1/2" more than the rest. Starting in the middle I used a 7' pipe clamp to squeeze the chines tight against the hull and installed 1x3 MDF on edge to hold the chines level. From the middle, I worked aft, then went back forward and loosened alternate pieces of the MDF to make sure I hadn't 'hogged' the hull with my pipe clamp by accident. Satisfied that the hull was laying naturally and fair, I left the clamps on the MDF in place to hold the chine level to the hull. I also left the pipe clamp in place at the stern to take a load off the MDF/clamp assemblies back there since the chines had to be held to the hull a little more strongly here.

Once the aft shelves (the splined sections)were installed, I cleaned up the epoxy squeezings and moved on to the foreward shelves. For these, I installed the rest of the stitches, then the 1x3 MDF pieces to hold the shelves level, then 'tack welded' the forward shelves to the hull. 'Tack welds' were installed between all stitches, and pieces of MDF, ...wherever I could squeeze one in (paint on epoxy, squirt in thickened epoxy, clean up.)

...Tomorrow ...glass the inside shelf/bottom panel seam ...