Note that prior to putting together the bottom panels, that I used them as a template to pre-mark and cut the second-layer 1/4" plywood which will be cold-molded onto the hull later (note that the 2nd layer plywood already had the scarf cut at this point and had been set aside.)

Prior to putting the panels on the molds, I used a sander to put a bevel on the edges that would be against each other when stitching, and I drilled 1/8" holes about 1/2" back from the edges for the stitches. Do this with both panels cut out and clamped to each other with perfect alignment. Spacing of the holes can be seen in the following pictures.

I took opportunity here to raise and lower one panel (the other settles against it) to get the edges to align perfectly. Note the clamps holding only the port side panel at this point.

Because I was working by myself, I used a ratcheting tie-down strap (see below) to help pull the bow sections together. The blocks and clamps (shown) were used to temporarily hold the bow points together to I could add the last tie-wrap and get them all tightened up. This is where you realize that beveling the inner edges is required! The dowels helped a lot in aligning these edges (lots of pressure here...).

To give you an idea how much epoxy is required here, here's the stats from my session:

• First bucket made from 30 pumps from my Michael Engineering Sticky Stuff Dispensor (it's not the biggest size pump... I'm cheap) plus wood flour/silica
• Second bucket was made from 20 pumps
• The third bucket was made from 15 pumps, then I finished up with a little more mixed in a 6-oz Solo Cup
• Several 12-pump batches to do the glassing
• TOTAL: About 1-1/4 gallons of epoxy for fillet and glassing work

I stopped the fillet and glass about 14" short of the transom since I didn't know exactly where the transom would strike the bottom when the whole stack is on the frame upside down. This will let the 'V' in the transom nest into the bottom panels when it is put together. I used a 3" wide putty knife to lay a flat epoxy fillet up to where the curve of the bow starts, then a 2" wide putty knife followed by a 1" putty knife so the fillet would naturally narrow as it went up the bow.

For the glassing, I did as Renn suggested and cross-brushed a lot of epoxy back and forth along the entire fillet prior to each layer of glass. Renn uses 2 layers of 10-oz glass tape (cut from cloth), 6" wide over 4" wide. Since I couldn't find someone selling 10-oz tape, I selected what I could find: 4" wide 9-oz woven tape followed by 6" wide 12-oz biaxial tape. Including the 10-oz glassing on the inside of these panels, this will give me 31-oz of glass on this seam, versus the 30-oz that Renn called for, and I'll have biaxial sandwiched in the middle.

After letting the glass/epoxy gel up, I went back over it with a fill-coat of clear epoxy and brushed it out (I had also used a squeegee when the glass was fresh to give the fillet a nice smooth concaveness). Finally, note that I did check the squareness of the building jig prior to laying in the panels, and I did level the jig on all 4 sides prior to doing the fillet and glass work.