The Tongass!
Step 4) Making the shelves (sheer framing)
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(Click pictures for full size image)

Lofting forward shelves
The first step in making the shelves is the lofting. I used two 4x8s end to end and held together with scrap and screws to loft the forward shelf shapes.
After the lofting, I used Renn's pattern transfer method using nails (and tape to hold them) to transfer the shelf patterns to 1/4" hardboard. It's important to note that I chose not to use 1-1/8" subfloor plywood for these pieces as recommended. Instead, I used 18mm and 12mm Aquatek Meranti to produce a 2-layer laminate. 30mm is around 1-3/16" in thickness, just ever so slightly thicker than specified...couldn't bring myself to put subfloor ply in my boat. Taking advantage of the fact that I was laminating the structure up from 2 layers, I used the lofting to define 5 templates. 2 of the templates define the 2-piece forward shelf structure (split by AB line) as specified by Renn. For the second layer, I staggered the lamination so that a long piece overlapped the AB (line) joint and had 12" diagonal joints fore and aft of middle. In this way, no single joint went clear through the laminate...a very strong structure compared to what the 2-piece subfloor ply would provide.

Shown here in this picture is one of the templates being planed down to the line to make it perfect.

 Planing a template
Forward shelf templates Here's a picture of the 5 templates that I made for cutting out the forward shelf pieces.
To cut out the forward shelf pieces, I used the 1/4" hardboard template screwed to the Meranti and a top-bearing template bit in my router. Works great, but notice how the bearing has become overheated (discolored)...give the router a break now and then! Template bearing
Cutting the outside shelf bevel Unfortunately, I did not take pictures of the forward shelf lamination going together. But, I simply used a slightly thickened epoxy/silica mixture for the gluing and finishing nails for holding the lamination together (pulled out the next morning.) The laminated structure was made so that the inside curves of the shelves were accurately cut and aligned, but the outside curves were purposely left proud. After the lamination cured, it was time to cut off the extra wood on the outside to a bevel of 21 degrees. I once again used the templates to mark a fair curve on the lamination, then followed Renn's instructions for cutting off the excess wood. Note: I once again used my 15A Porter Cable with no problem whatsoever. So far, I have had zero need for owning the worm drive Skilsaw...darn! There goes an excuse to buy another power tool!
After both forward shelves were cut out, I aligned them on top of each other and clamped them together so I could fair the outside curves. I carefully made both shelves match while not disturbing the fair curve originally defined by the templates. I used a low-angle block plane to remove the minor anomalies and double-checked wherever I planed to make sure the 21 degree angle remained. Cutting outside bevel on f'w'd shelves
Fairing the inside of the shelves After fairing the outside bevel, I flipped the shelves and followed Renn's instructions to fair the inside curves with a low-angle block plane (sharpened on a diamond plate.) This step is not called out in Renn's instructions, and if you are not careful you can mess up the curve the boat is supposed to take...so do like I did and consider this to be a minor tune-up and mostly a cross-check to make sure the wood that will define the outside shape of the bow is symmetrical and nicely curved.
Close-up of the inside fairing. Note that I faired both forward shelf structures together rather than separately...just another little detail to make sure the boat is always symmetrical. Close up of inside side
Fore/aft shelf joint For the aft shelf structure, I split a 2x8 lengthwise on a table saw with the blade set to 21 degrees then planed them down with my DeWalt thickness planer so they'd match the thickness of the forward lamination. I then used the forward shelf lofting on the 4x8s to transfer the 12" diagonal scarf line to the aft shelves, cut them off, and glued them up as specified by Renn for the Standard (see the book, not the addendums.) This image shows the fore/aft joint of the two completed shelf structures, aligned on top of each other for temporary storage (Man! Them are some loong parts!) Notice that I've got the Station #6 line (original) drawn, and a 'new Station #6' line that is 6" forward of the original. The original spot is still "Station #6", but the 'new' one is where the forward cabin bulkhead will go. I'm shortening the V-berth by 6". This will give me more room aft, and allow me to mount my belly tank 6" further forward...or allow an additional 6" of tankage, either way you look at it. I know from experience that a 6'6" bunk is fine for my 6'3" frame, so I chose not to waste extra space in the V-berth.
Ahhh...another fine day in the shop comes to a close! Booze
Glassing the shelves Ok, after a long station break (see next step), I've come back to the shelves to finish them up. As viewed in the upright boat, the bottom-inside corners of the entire shelves has now been rounded over with a 1/4" roundover bit in my router. And as shown, I glassed the shelves with 4-oz glass cloth. The original idea was to prevent checking in the aft Douglas Fir portions of the shelves, but RAKA shipped me about 4X the amount of 4-oz glass that I ordered (clearance stuff...) so while I was at it, I said "to heck with it" and glassed the shelves from bow to stern. After curing, I used a SurForm to remove the excess and then cut the shelves to 22 feet long, using a 12-degree bevel to match the rake of the transom. Note: Notice that I did not apply glass to the surfaces that'll have the hull and sheer decks glued to them.
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