To add the sheer decks to the boat, you cut rough blanks that are approximately correct (estimate with a tape), then clamp or screw them to the shelves, and mark the outside line by drawing along the outside of the hull onto the sheer deck blank. 'Imagining' the main deck in the boat and what it would be like to be leaning over the rail trying to net a heavy fish, I used a plumb bob to estimate what I wanted the sheer deck width to be. As it turns out, the total width (including the coaming) should be around 9-1/2 inches. In other words, Renn's 9" spec works fine. With the hull's exterior line marked on the decking, I made a 9" wide piece of scrap and offset the outer line to produce the inner line. I used a bevel and bevel board (like a big homemade protractor) to measure the hull-to-sheer deck angle at the halfway point of each piece and wrote it on the piece of decking.

Since the sides of the pilot house will curve to match the hull's curve, but must be straightened out in the upper half so that sliding windows won't bind, I decided to give the lower half of the pilot house side panels half the curve correction to ease the requirement for correction on the top half. To do this, I marked the sheer deck where the forward and aft bulkheads go for the pilot house and drew a straight line from point to point. Since I had already drawn the hull curve, offset inward 9", it was an easy task to mark and loft a cut line that was halfway between the original curve and the straight line. At this point I cut the inner lines with a 90-degree angle (standard cut) and the outer line with the angle measured by the bevel (so that the wider face is UP of course).

That's my son making sure the inside of the flotation chamber meets his expectations...

I did make some modifications to Renn's specs: My anchor well's aft bulkhead is 6" further aft than Renn specs. The anchor well bottom is lower (deeper well) by 4" or so. I added a 1" by 1" fore/aft stiffener to the bottom of the anchor well to help carry my pounds of weight if I choose to stand up there. I allowed the plywood bottom to take it's natural camber (it was a non-flat piece ...by choice) so that the aft corners would be slightly lower than the middle section. As it turns out, the aft corners are about 1/4" lower than the middle. I also added a 1/2" spacer on the nose of the support gizmo to raise the anchor well floor's fore end by 1/2"+. These minor changes were just so that water would be encouraged to flow aft and outward for good drainage. I glassed the whole anchor well with tough 12-oz roving. All seams were glassed with 9-oz tape, except for the aft bulkhead to floor joint. As spec'd, I put two layers of glass on the outside of that ...a 12-oz biaxial layer followed by 9-oz woven.

Barely visible under the anchor well, you can see two white spots on the stem. This is where the bow eye will go. I'm not going to use a copper tube as spec'd by Renn. I hole-drilled oversize holes in the stem and filled them with silica and milled glass fiber thickened epoxy. I will drill correctly-sized holes through these epoxy 'plugs' later on, when it's time to install the bow eye. I'll be doing the same thing to install a bow eye near the top end of the stem underneath the anchor roller (for tying up to docks or getting towed.)