Ed's & Herb's boat in Perth

[Ed Snyder]

We've started building Prince Rupert here in Perth Australia, 2 ex-pat Kiwis, Both of us work the mines here usually constructing camps and civil works - Concrete form-work.
We have the Bottom, chine and stringers all laminated - building the shelves today, in 27 deg (cel) weather - nice.
We have built to 28 Ft and in case andded another 24 inches if she will look ok and Brians happy with it, otherwise out comes the chainsaw!

[Ed Snyder]

Using peel ply is a clean non itchy way to ready the glassing process for the next layer, roll it over the glass past the glassed part - remove after she's all set, this removes the blush off the epoxy too. Great smooth finish ready for light filling, sanding and undercoat.

[Brian.Dixon]

I haven't tried peel ply yet, but want to.  I've heard that you can use nylon taffeta from the fabric store instead and it's a lot cheaper ...but obviously I haven't tried that yet either.  Maybe after the new shop is built...

Brian

[Brian.Dixon]

 Update:

  Ed's PhotoBucket Slide Show & Gallery

 

 He's going fast!

Brian

[Ed Snyder]

I haven't tried peel ply yet, but want to.  I've heard that you can use nylon taffeta from the fabric store instead and it's a lot cheaper ...but obviously I haven't tried that yet either.  Maybe after the new shop is built...

Brian

Make sure it's been treated, not sure what with, but it may end up being part of the layup process other wise!

[Ed Snyder]

Well, progress has been great to date, now's the time to get on with a few other priorities for a month or two.
We glued in the stem as designed - with Aussie hardwood, a bit heavy but woodn't bust if we hit anything!
The reason I liked this design is for 2 reasons, 1st is the trawler design, 2nd the build process, no framing, chine, keel or stringers usually in a boat build, simple quick and the best part clean looking interior, like the interior of a composite foam sandwich build, I think lighter build too, every one needs to remember the more weight the more fuel to move it.

Back to the stem, I like nautical looking boats. Like a curved stem.
So, this area to me needed a more nautical look. After measuring the sheer shelf from the floor, we removed the stem, that took a bit of effort, hardwood + epoxy = tough stem. I wanted a round stem, so laminated up a round one!

Using 1/4" ply cut it into wedges 3/4" to 1/8" @ 36" long to be cut to the correct length later when fitting it.
Built an MDF mould with the sheer shelf and chine angles taken off the boat as built, got a 4 gal tin to get the curve for the sheer and a 1.5" tin for the chine end. Screwed the MDF shaped ends 36" apart to an MDF base with 3 battens nailed in between, one at the centre line of the stem and the other 2 either side at about the point where the curve finishes on the ends, this is to keep the edges of the strips straight.
Covered the mould with wax paper taped on ready to place the stem on for glassing.
I used 1/4" ply as glassing 2 x 20 oz biax on both sides wood give about 3/8" thickness - same as the side panels.
The strips of ply were laid on the table and masking taped together on one face, copious tape here, as it's the strength to hold it all in shape for glassing later. When all done, this was lifted and placed on the mould, small brads kept the taped strips centred on the mould.
Lots of resin applied for the 10 minute period for soaking up in the opened up ply edges. Laid up the biax, peel ply (treated) a word of caution using peel ply, the glass needs to have plenty of resin, like when the glass gets the 2nd coat of resin, use it now, the peel ply will other wise lift the resin up to it and leave the glass with little voids in the weave under the peel ply, you will notice this when you need to sand off some areas...
Next day with excitement (always looks great this system) lifted the stem off the mould and laid up the inside.

Fitting to the hull was a trim and fit system, taking care not to trim off too much as the sides of the stem needed to fair into the ply side panels, I didn't want to have to fair up any thing. glued her up when I was happy.
When I laid up the side panels, put 1-3/4" strips of wax paper covered ply backers behind the stem to screw the side panel to when glueing up, ending up with a fair hull side. (might add here that one side I rushed thus needed to apply a little glue as fairing compound - I'm not perfect!)
Now I'll have a fair interior forward cabin to look at, nice!

[Ed Snyder]

I haven't tried peel ply yet, but want to.  I've heard that you can use nylon taffeta from the fabric store instead and it's a lot cheaper ...but obviously I haven't tried that yet either.  Maybe after the new shop is built...

Brian

Make sure it's been treated, not sure what with, but it may end up being part of the layup process other wise!

The other issue I had with the stuff, if it has wrinkles in it, these will 'print' through, needing a sanding if one wanted a dead flat surface....

selling for $4 meter here in Oz, bought a 50M roll for $150.
Great for avoiding getting rid of epoxy blush and sanding to key the next layup (when needed)
This stuff leaves a beautiful finish, use it every where, you don't have to have it in one piece either, cut smaller sheets and dry roll it over your layup.
I use it every where even on small tight areas just to have a smooth finish and no sanding.
It can also be used on glue fillets - beats sanding, used a PVC pipe to smooth it out and short hair 1" roller to smooth out the edges of the fillets.
Caution -  (again) try not to put creases in the peel ply prior to using it, these 'print' through - having to sand these spots if you are wanting a near undercoat ready finish for those smaller hard to sand areas

I found out real quick it's not a one man job with using the stuff and laying up glass all at once.
Better to cut the peel ply into smaller sizes for what you will be glassing and put it on a roll, broom handle etc, (e.g. if glassing 9 yard long 1 yard wide, cut peel ply into 1 yd X 8" wider than the glass area - squares, the joins in the ply are not a problem later) then use a short hair roller to roll out smooth, having a helper to hold up the peel ply whilst laying it on will help greatly.
Remember to have plenty of resin on the glass, trial an error will have you getting it about right, e.g. usually one gives the cured glassing another roll on of resin to fill the weave, do it now, as the peel ply will take up resin off the surface of your layup and give voids in between the glass weave, these are easy to find if you are not sure how it all turned out later, just orbital sand a small area of the surface resin you will see the voids in the weave if they are there. (I haven't seen the peel ply take resin out of the glass fibre itself)

Google it all, there are better operators than me 'out there'

[Ed Snyder]

Here's a link to a slide show of the curved stem, or really any curved surface you want, interior cabinets, corners of the coach house etc

[arthor]

Looks like there is a race on. Fantastic job from all. Looking forward to seeing these float.

[Ed Snyder]

Here's a link to a slide show I update often.

http://s832.photobucket.com/albums/zz247/Da-Edster/?action=view&current=7d370c47.pbw